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Yohji Yamamoto AW20-21 Femme Collection

Yohji Yamamoto

For this season the inspiration come from Yohji’s first collections, taking the codes from the past and transforming them with a contemporary and avant-garde twist. 37 looks for a romantic/punk journey with touches of paintings by Yuuka Asakura.


Yamamoto’s structural looks rival the intricate forms of edifices with their architectural prowess. For AW20, voluminous ruches were pinched, layered and twisted resulting in complexly introverted mazes of theatrical draping and crinoline-esque padding. Other looks, double-breasted coats with jutting collars or window-pane holes, exploded at the waist with geometrical lumps.


Mimicking corsets, crinolines and bustiers inspired from the 19th century. Yohji-san took the inspiration and played with her with a twist: de-constructing a tool used to attain perfection and re-constructing it as imperfect. Corsets were minimised to lacing only, punctuating the under-boob of swollen dresses, layered into ruffled bustiers or loosely threaded atop shapeless tunics.

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