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The meaningful contrasts within Cancellato’s ‘Cruel Kindness’ FW20/21 collection

Cancellato blends the real with the surreal, the traditional with the innovative and the oversized with the delicate. A fusion of simple, yet complex oxymorons of everyday life sheds light on the oppressive archetypes of our modern world.


The simplicity of the colour palette is accentuated by bold, ruffled sleeves, open back tie detailing, reversable padding and voluminous wrapped necklines. The contrasting textures, fibres and consistencies embody the ‘Cruel Kindness’ collection, representing the interplay of dreams and reality. Hand-crafted from certified Italian merino wool, each piece whilst physically different, is united through its quality, ethicality and ‘sculptural softness’. From extra fine bouclé to chunky Alpaca, each piece uniquely and distinctively nurtures the human sense of touch. Inspired by the human experience of dreaming, the collection is simultaneously consistent and incongruent. In old English, the term ‘dream’ originally referred to joy, noise, or music. Interestingly, the word’s synonymity with sleep was only introduced years later through many Scandinavian conflicts and settlements in Britain. The old Norse draumr, meaning “a dream during sleep” influenced the meaning of dream in the English context, and by the end of the 14th century, earlier meanings had almost entirely changed.


Deeply inspired by the words of FKA Twigs – ‘Mary Magdalene’: “True nature won’t search to destroy, if it doesn’t make sense”.

Whilst the collection has many influences, the central message is fluidity. Much like the definition of ‘dream’ itself, the meaning of the clothing is fit to the wearer. It is changing, evolving and sometimes, contradictory.

Edited by Kaija Love

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