The solar system covers Isabel Benenato’s Fall/Winter 2018-19 men’s collection in a blanket of darkness and light. As a reflection on the mystery of the universe, Benenato traveled the planets starting with the small, cold and obscure dwarf planet Pluto and fiery Mars, both associated with Scorpio, her astrological sign. From there a pattern emerges in the stars seen as small points joined by trajectory lines represented in black and white embroidery.
Immersed in all the nuances of the sky at night, the collection uses hand airbrushing to chart the constellations in blue on black linen/wool.
The wardrobe for this runs from workwear to suits styled in a very sartorial, handmade and avant-garde way including a return to the iconic masculine double-breasted jacket with peak lapels worn with an impeccable white shirt.
Taking its cue from the heavens, the color palette includes black, white, Pluto-inspired hazel, deep, blue, dark gray and dark Mars red. Materials are all natural from all wool for tailoring to wool/linen and wool/hemp for jeans and workwear with prints in lunar landscape patterns. Black, white and dark blue shirts appear throughout the collection to soften the sobriety of refined wool tailoring, or more casual mixed with Casentino wool T-shirts.
This season’s stars are scarves, coats and cloaks woven on antique looms. With their uneven textures, they’re like art pieces and they give this collection a truly beautiful, one-of-a-kind handmade identity. New this season are shoes. Made in Italy by a fine craftsman, they’re in vegetable treated leather which gives a natural look to amphibious boots, ankle boots and derby styles.
To complete the look are small leather accessories with a dark, mysterious touch in scale-textured fish skin.